When one of the branches of the Baekdu-daegan range reached Seoul, three peaks were formed, which became Mt. Samgaksan.
Baegunbong, Insubong, and Mangyeongbong Peaks, and a group of smaller peaks surrounding them give Mt. Samgaksan a mysterious but stately appearance.
Doseonsa Temple is located on the eastern slope of Mt. Samgaksan, a truly spectacular sight and an auspicious location.
In a sea of mountain ranges that seem omnipotent, Doseonsa Temple stands firm like a tranquil island in a stormy sea.
Thanks to the continual flow of geomantic energy found here, the temple has stood for a thousand years and aspires to stand another thousand years.
To me, Doseonsa Temple resembles Mt. Samgaksan itself, and upon entering, I feel the deep faith that countless sentient beings have built up here over the centuries.

The path leading to Doseonsa Temple makes it easy to forget one’s worldly affairs.
As soon as you leave the streets of Ui-dong—in the northernmost part of Seoul, where buildings and roads form an impenetrable maze—a forest path greets you.
The beautiful forest that instantly fills your field of vision is so enchanting that any concerns lingering in your mind simply fall away.
The mountain range may be winding, but it is spacious, so your steps become lighter.
It seems as if nature is telling you once again that your true inherent mind is free and cannot be roiled by mundane afflictions.
How many pilgrims have climbed Mt. Samgaksan emptying their minds like this?
The temple was founded by State Preceptor Doseon in 862 during the late Unified Silla period, and the firm Buddhist faith of all those who have visited here over a thousand years now illuminates this forest path.

Doseonsa Temple’s History on Mt. Samgaksan

State Preceptor Doseon—who foresaw that the “Latter Day of the Dharma” would occur 1,000 years later—believed that Buddhism would be revived in the Samgaksan area.
Given the magnificent geomantic energy of the mountainous terrain, he did not arbitrarily choose a site to establish a temple from where he hoped the Buddhadharma would flow freely again.
He searched for a site that would remain stable for a long time and established Doseonsa Temple there.
He then carved the image Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva into a huge boulder with his Dharma staff.
This is the story of Doseonsa’s founding and the origin of its faith in Avalokitesvara.
The rock-carved Buddha statue he carved is now Doseonsa’s most cherished tangible cultural heritage.
It is called Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva even though it is actually a statue of Sakyamuni Buddha.
This fact alone shows how firmly faith in Avalokitesvara has taken root here.

In a geography book published in 1530 and titled, Sinjeung Dongguk Yeoji Seungram (Revised Academic Geography for Eastern Country), Doseonsa Temple is recorded as the royal temple named Doseongam, dedicated to Princess Jeongui, the daughter of King Sejong.
The princess’ devotion was so great that she even had her own annex building torn down when workers ran out of materials for temple construction.
Afterward, Doseonsa Temple expanded in size and was the site of some major historical events from the mid 19th century.
It was rebuilt in 1864 with the support of Kim Jwageun, the head of the Kim Clan from Andong, who once held state power.
And in 1887, Imjun Seunim erected a stone pagoda here and enshrined the Buddha’s sarira within it.
In 1903, King Gojong ordered the reconstruction of Daeungjeon (Main Buddha Hall) and other buildings, and the following year, it was designated a national prayer temple, gaining it fame and status.
Half a century later, in 1961, Cheongdam Seunim became the abbot and established the Hall of State Protection and Repentance.
Since then, both major and minor Buddhist ceremonies have continued to be held here, resulting in Doseonsa’s current appearance.

The Truth Flowing Clear and Bright

As a pilgrim to Doseonsa, I paid respects to the Gate of Compassion, the Smiling Sakyamuni Buddha, the pagoda enshrining Buddha’s sarira, the Hall of 3,000 Ksitigarbha Bodhisattvas, and the Hall of State Protection and Repentance, and lastly to Daeungjeon Hall.
I then stood in front of the Rock-Carved Standing Buddha Statue.
In a time when Buddhism had already begun to decline, the beauty and grandeur of his teachings finally reached their pinnacle of expression here at the Rock-carved Buddha Statue.
My mind had already been emptied of discursive thoughts by the pristine natural surroundings and was filled with the joy of faith as I entered Doseonsa Temple.
I put my palms together in front of each object of worship I encountered.

I walked deep into the temple—where the world of true emptiness and wonderful existence unfolds with every step—and a 20-meter-tall Rock-Carved Standing Buddha greeted me.
Although it is only visible in its entirety when looking up from ground level, the soft folds of its robes and bearded face radiate affection.
It seemed to impart a spirit of kindness indirectly without demanding respect, which naturally brought a smile to my face.
I prayed along with the other pilgrims.
The delusion of thinking one is better than others cannot exist here.
However, I pray that everyone will understand that suffering begins with discrimination, and that the truth that all beings are one will someday become clear to everyone.

Those who arrived after me also bowed and offered their respects as one, and I imagined them to be emerging from a fountain of non-duality that never ceases.
I suddenly looked back and saw the lush forest path flowing leisurely out into the world like a river.

Rock-Carved Standing Buddha

It is thought to be a statue of Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva, carved in stone by State Preceptor Doseon, according to the founding legend of Doseonsa Temple.
It is also the most cherished treasure of Doseonsa Temple, and is estimated to have been created in the early or late Joseon Dynasty.
This Buddha is carved into a 20-meter-tall rock face and is one of the larger statues found on Mt. Bukhansan.
In front of it is a broad space for worship and a pagoda enshrining the Buddha’s sarira, making it the ultimate destination for pilgrims to Doseonsa.
It is characterized by its simple line treatment and crude facial expression, evoking a sense of familiarity rather than awe.
It was designated a tangible cultural heritage of Seoul in 1977.

Cheongdam Memorial Hall

It was built in 2002 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the birth of Cheongdam Seunim, who brought Doseonsa to its current appearance.
The memorial hall exhibits over 100 pieces of calligraphy, paintings, daily necessities, and stationery left by him, and also enshrines the Buddha’s sarira brought from Sri Lanka and Myanmar.
It is a place where you can walk in the footsteps of the monk who pioneered the revival of Korean Buddhism.

Hall of State Protection and Repentance

This is where the main Buddhist ceremonies of Doseonsa Temple are held.
Inspired by Buddhist prayers for unification in Silla, the patriotic prayers of Goryeo Buddhism, and the prayers of Joseon Buddhists to protect the country, Cheongdam Seunim advocated Buddhism as a means of state protection and repentance.
This was based on the peninsula-wide desire for peace through Buddhist practice and the application of Buddhist principles in daily life.
Cheongdam’s dream to create a Buddhist paradise on Earth can be confirmed by the phrase “a temple of unrivaled compassion and liberation for all,” carved on the stone wall and based on his own calligraphy.
The Hall of State Protection and Repentance enshrines the Seated Amitabha Buddha and the Seated Mahasthamaprapta Bodhisattva, both of which are tangible cultural treasures of Seoul.

 Kim Gyu-bo is a travel writer. He served as a reporter for the Beopbo Sinmun, deputy editor-in-chief of KTX Magazine, and senior editor of iiin magazine