Victoria Rakhmanova (20) and Polina Bortsova (18)—two friends from Crimea,
Russia, known as the "Jewel of the Black Sea,"—are just beginning to shed
their girlish charms. Although both women are from Crimea, their hometowns
are about 200 kilometers apart. They reportedly didn't even know each other
back in Russia, but they became best friends while studying abroad in Korea.
Victoria aspires to teach Korean to foreigners, and Polina dreams of becoming
a world-class performance planner. Their first-ever Templestay experience
was a time of recharging, allowing them to relax and unwind, just as they
would back home. I followed them closely during their two-day Templestay at
Naesosa Temple, a place where nature and Korean sensibilities blend together.

A Precious Friendship Arranged by Korea: Victoria and Polina

Naesosa Temple is an ancient Buddhist temple in Buan, a temple of renewal. Founded in 633, the 34th year of King Mu's reign in Baekje, Hyegu Duta Seunim is said to have founded the temple with the vow "May all who come here be renewed." Over the past 1,400 years, Naesosa Temple has undergone repeated renovations. However, it suffered the devastating loss of most of its buildings during the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592―1598). The founder of today's Naesosa Temple is the eminent monk, Seon Master Cheongmin, who lived during the reign of Joseon's King Injo. Rebuilt by Master Cheongmin in 1633, Daeungbojeon Hall still boasts a majestic appearance, exuding the fragrance of nearly 400 years of history. One can easily lose track of time just exploring the many treasures of Daeungbojeon Hall alone, from the flower-patterned latticework where each petal seems alive and vibrant, to the mystical Avalokitesvara Bird holding a brush in its mouth, and to the magnificent White-Robed Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva mural on the wall behind the main altar, the largest of its kind in Korea. Naesosa Temple is the premier temple dedicated to Avalokitesvara faith in the West Sea area. It offers much to see and has a wealth of stories to tell.

Just walking along the fir forest path from the One Pillar Gate to the Gate of Heavenly Kings clears the mind. Thanks to studying diligently before coming to Korea, Victoria and Polina are both fluent in Korean, but even so, adjusting to the unfamiliar environment was challenging. And their hearts, at first filled with tension, seem to slowly relax. Victoria, a fan of K-drama, is in her third year in Korea, studying Korean language and literature in the Department of Media Communication at Chung-Ang University. Like any college student, she's actively involved in extracurricular activities and currently serves as a Korea Times "global supporter." Her friend Polina has been in Korea for less than a year. She is studying journalism and public relations at Soongsil University and is also a member of the band Dume . She's also a passionate young woman who, in addition to her schoolwork, takes performance planning classes at a broadcasting academy. Polina learned Korean from the same teacher Victoria had in Russia, and Victoria, her senior, has been a valuable mentor to Polina, a precious bond that Korea has created for her.

Both love the tranquil and peaceful atmosphere of Buddhist temples and wanted to get away from their hectic lives in Seoul and relax in the embrace of nature. How will Naesosa Temple respond to their desire to stop thinking and clear their minds?

Time at Naesosa Temple, Breathing in Nature

Their Templestay began with great anticipation and excitement, starting with "making dried persimmons." True to Buan's reputation for delicious persimmons, this activity showcased the region's unique flavor. Jingak Seunim, the Templestay guiding monk, and the participants sat around peeling large, ripe persimmons, stringing them on hooks for easy drying, and hanging them under the eaves. They worked for some time, occasionally snacking on dried persimmons. The persimmons, their crimson flesh now exposed, began to grow in numbers beneath the eaves. This was seemingly a simple task.

Naesosa Templestay’s philosophy says “to rest well, you must pause well.” And accordingly, Victoria and Polina’s goal of “emptying their thoughts” was quickly achieved.

With a much lighter heart, we continued our temple tour, learning about Naesosa Temple's long history and culture. We toured the ancient buildings, including Daeungbojeon Hall, a repository of centuries of history, and even walked up to Gwaneumjeon Hall, located far from Naesosa. Climbing the steep path, we found ourselves instinctively, and without prompting, watching where we stepped. As we were starting to become winded, we were nearing Gwaneumjeon Hall, built on the site of the old Sajaam Hermitage. We entered to pay our respects to Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva, who greeted us with a compassionate smile, and stepped back outside. We were blessed with a panoramic view of Naesosa Temple in the distance. The neatly arranged temple compound was a sight we couldn't take in all at once while strolling among the buildings. It was a Buddhist sanctuary where prayer and practice had continued for over a millennium. Exclaiming, "How beautiful!", Victoria and Polina were momentarily lost for words, reminded of the lush nature of their hometown.

We enjoyed a dinner offering of temple cuisine steeped in the natural flavors of Naesosa Temple, and after the evening ceremony, darkness descended upon Naesosa Temple. The night was quiet yet not lonely, enhanced by a campfire, which added to the romantic atmosphere.

Because of the constant threat that forest fires pose to wooden temple structures, the millennium-old temple is thoroughly prepared. Warming the chill of the night with a wood fire and hot mulberry leaf tea, we shared heartfelt conversations over roasted sweet potatoes. Victoria found the diverse questions from the participants meaningful and was completely captivated by the flavor of roasted sweet potatoes, a rare treat in Russia. Jingak Seunim reminded everyone, "Let's be grateful that we are here and that we have precious friends by our side," words that lingered in Polina's memory.

Beautiful Youth, Beautiful Life

Next morning at 4:30 a.m., the dawn ceremony began. Attending the dawn ceremony is mandatory at Naesosa Templestay. It’s a precious time for self-reflection, a time most people aren't normally up, whether one is religious or not. Having slept soundly since 9 p.m. the night before, Victoria and Polina joined the ceremony with bright eyes. The cool air, the birdsong, and the starry sky reminded them of their hometown once more. They recalled for a brief moment the countless stars, nature, and people they'd forgotten.

After the breakfast offering, we practiced yoga and meditation under the guidance of Jingak Seunim, which was the highlight of our Naesosa Templestay. Having studied yoga meditation in college, Jingak Seunim is a yoga expert who began practicing yoga out of a desire to cultivate both mind and body. The key to the class is to not be too eager and to follow along as best you can. It's an opportunity for renewing one's body and mind, often exhausted from struggling to survive.

Victoria enjoyed drying persimmons and, as a tea lover, enjoyed the conversation over tea with a monk, but she found yoga quite challenging. On the other hand, Polina loves to dance and found every moment, including yoga and meditation, to be quite joyful. Meanwhile, both of them said they often think about their families who believe in them and support their studies in Korea. I asked them if they had any messages they would like to share with their families. Victoria replied, "I know I am who I am today thanks to my family. I am always grateful." Polina added, "I hope my family can live a life of comfort and peace, just as I felt during my Templestay." Their eyes filled with deep love and yearning as they spoke.

Their youth is so fresh and fragrant, so green that it almost dazzles the eyes. Depending on the path you choose, you can become anyone, anything. Come to think of it, even the Buddha had a similar quandary. As a prince he enjoyed wealth and honor, but he yearned for something unfulfilled. He then embarked on a lifelong adventure in search of truth, ultimately becoming one of mankind's most eminent teachers.

These two women, too, are adventurers who came to Korea, not for an easy life, but for new challenges. Their futures may hold rough roads ahead or stormy seas, but with a relentless spirit, they will surely achieve what they desire at the end of their journey.

May you not be afraid; enjoy the freedom of youth to the fullest. Sometimes, when you feel overwhelmed, may you recall the sky, the stars, the wind, the people, and the smile of the Buddha you encountered at Naesosa Temple. Naesosa Temple, a temple of renewal, will stand by you.